Heated airer vs dehumidifier for drying washing

Where the water goes

Every wet load has to lose its water somewhere. With a heated airer, it evaporates into the room air. In a small room with the door shut, humidity climbs quickly, drying slows, and the moisture settles on the coldest surfaces such as windows and outside walls. Our explainer on how much water a wash load puts into your home covers this in more detail.

With a dehumidifier, the same water is drawn back out of the air and collected in the tank. You can see it there, and it is not condensing on your bedroom wall. That is the main reason a dehumidifier is the safer choice for homes already prone to condensation or mould.

Drying time and how each one speeds it up

Drying time depends on air temperature, humidity and airflow. A heated airer works on temperature: warm rails heat the fabric in contact with them. Items draped over the rails dry quickly, while thick items and the parts not touching a rail dry more slowly.

A dehumidifier works on humidity and airflow. It keeps the room air dry and blows it across the clothes, so water keeps leaving the fabric at a steady rate. Many models have a laundry mode that runs the fan harder and ignores the usual humidity target; see dehumidifier laundry mode explained.

Power and kWh per load

Heated airers are typically rated at around 200 to 300 W. A dehumidifier varies more: a compact compressor unit such as the Bosch Dry 1000 is listed at 175 W, a 20 litre compressor unit such as the Meaco Arete Two at 350 W, and desiccant models often draw 370 to 660 W.

To estimate a load, multiply the watts by the hours and divide by 1,000. A 250 W airer running for 6 hours uses 1.5 kWh. A 350 W dehumidifier running for 6 hours uses 2.1 kWh, though it will cycle off once the room is dry if it is on a humidity setting. Enter your own figures and unit rate in the running-cost calculator.

Why many homes use both

The two work well together. Put the heated airer in a small room, close the door and stand the dehumidifier about a metre away with its air outlet pointed at the clothes. The airer speeds up evaporation, the dehumidifier removes the water, and the room never gets clammy. A cover on the airer helps the rails heat the clothes; take it off for the last hour or leave a gap so moist air can escape to the dehumidifier.

If you only buy one, choose the dehumidifier when your home has condensation or you dry most loads indoors. Choose the airer when you have a warm, well-ventilated room and mainly want small loads dry overnight.

Best dehumidifiers for drying clothes →

Space, noise and safety

A heated airer is silent and folds flat, but it needs floor space and a socket nearby. A dehumidifier makes some fan noise and needs emptying, or a drain hose to a sink. Never cover a dehumidifier's air inlet or outlet with clothes, and follow the airer maker's guidance on what fabrics can go on the rails.

Note:Plug heated airers and dehumidifiers directly into a wall socket rather than a multi-way extension, and keep them away from water spills.

Frequently asked questions

Is a heated airer or a dehumidifier cheaper to run? Per hour, a heated airer and a small compressor dehumidifier are similar. A dehumidifier on a humidity setting will switch itself off once the room is dry, which can cut its hours.

Does a heated airer cause condensation? It can. The water from the clothes goes into the room air, so in a closed, cool room it will condense on windows and cold walls unless you ventilate or run a dehumidifier.

Should the door be open or shut when drying clothes with a dehumidifier? Shut. A closed door keeps the dehumidifier working on the small volume of air around the washing rather than the whole house.